Nesting Begins

April 9th, 2007

Okay, fellow Crackpots, I’ve hit the Nesting Bug. Last Friday I was out at Joann’s, because rotary cutting blades were 50% off, and I was looking at the fat quarter bundles (30% off), because I love fat quarter bundles. I had been thinking about what to do about the baby’s room, since whatever we do will need to be gender-neutral, but the gliding rocker that Nancy is generously passing along to us (thanks, Nancy!) is blue. I had been thinking about a yellow-and-blue color scheme, which wouldn’t be entirely gender-neutral, but probably close enough (and we’re not ones to quibble about the defeminizing influence of the color blue on little girls).

So Joann’s had two fat quarter bundles in pastel yellow and blue palettes. And one of them had a fabric with nursery-rhyme characters, including a cow jumping over a moon, a dish and a spoon, a cat playing a fiddle, and a dog in trousers. (I’m not sure what the trousers have to do with anything.)

But wait! One of the yellows is actually a multi-colored paisley, with pink and green as well as blue. Yellow and blue and pink and green all together are very gender-neutral…

Do you see where this is going?

So, I picked up the two bundles, a couple of additional fat quarters in pink, and combined them with stuff from my stash to put together the following palette:

palette of fabrics for future wall hanging

(Note to self: I need more greens!) Now I just have to decide what to do with it. It’s definitely going to be a wall hanging, not a full baby-sized quilt. I’m thinking about one of the large one-block baby quilt patterns that have been in Quiltmaker in the last few years, or maybe a small sampler of sorts with four blocks or so. Any suggestions for a relatively large, complex, abstract quilt block design like Arrow Crown or Memory?

The Perfect Sweater

April 8th, 2007

My rendition isn’t quite perfect (I was rather sloppy when sewing in the sleeves and really ought to re-do that), but it’s the name of the pattern from Mason-Dixon Knitting. I recommend reading about the genesis of the pattern – it’s quite amusing.

Perfect Sweater

I did this pretty much to spec. I used the called-for yarn, Cascade 220, which has really become my go-to worsted weight wool – I love the stuff, and the fact that I’ve got an LYS with an amazing selection of it doesn’t hurt – an entire wall of scores of colors of yarny goodness. I did alter the pattern a bit to make the sweater about an inch longer. The sweater itself is a perwinkley purple (a.k.a. a version of a certain crackpot’s favorite color – sorry, Mom – it fits me!) and the hem facings and neck are done with a medium purplish blue.

Perfect Sweater Neck

I also didn’t use a smaller needle when knitting the hem facings, so there is a slightly belled effect at the sleeve bottoms. This wasn’t entirely intentional, but I quite like it.

Perfect Sweater Cuff

Oh, and I had to re-do the sleeve caps because my row gauge was off. Note too self: if you know the row gauge is off and compensate for it while knitting the body, you also need to compensate for it while knitting the sleeves. I don’t know what I was thinking.

I finished this sweater a couple weeks ago and have already worn it a few times – it definitely passes the wear test. It’s a great sweater for casual wear over a t-shirt, and I love the bit of waist shaping.

And, what’s coming up in the yarny craft category – I have a crocheted baby blanket for afghans for Afghans underway. After that, I plan to finish the rug for my living room that I started last year. I’m thinking about doing a fair isle sweater for my next major knitting project. If I start this spring, I might be done by winter. The current leader in pattern options is Hillswick Lumber by Ann Feitelson – some gorgeous pictures can be seen here and here.

Crackpot Quilters’ Blog makes the big time!

April 4th, 2007

Guess what I found when I was playing with Google the other day?

Someone has put a link to our blog on their blog! We’re part of the blogosphere, everyone! There’s a blog called Feeling Simply Quilty (watch out for the animated photos on that page, they’re kind of woozy-inducing) that has put us in her list of links under “Need more inspiration….” I think this is really cool!

I have no idea who the blogger is, but she’s got photos from the Bloomington Quilt Show, so maybe our southern Indiana quilter knows her?

Sara’s Quilt

April 4th, 2007

Sara’s quilt has been completed and sent off. I hope it will arrive before Easter.

Sara\'s quilt

The blocks in the quilt are :
Top row: Random Rails-Aunt Barb, Star of Hope-Aunt Martha, Log Cabin with a Chain-Rebecca
Second row: Ducks and Ducklings-Aunt Martha, Darting Minnows-Aunt Martha, Grecian Square-Nancy
Third Row: Review-Rebecca, Crazy Heart-Nancy, Crazy Patch-Emily
Fourth Row: Crazy Patch #2-Emily, Bunny Trail-Aunt Barb, Pinwheel-Nancy

It is very cute. There is a nice variety of blocks. I machine quilted it with a variegated thread in shades of pink, blue, yellow and green. It’s hard to see in the photos. For blocks without a definite pattern, I quilted a double heart like the one in Nancy’s Crazy Heart.

The bunny print back looks cute, too.

quilt with back

We all hope Sara will have some quality “tummy time” on the quilt.

Mystery Quilt, Part Two

February 25th, 2007

So the latest issue of Quiltmaker came out recently, with the next installment of the Mystery Quilt, four six-inch blocks of different flower designs. I have to admit, I was a little disappointed, since I don’t much care for flower blocks, but oh well.

Here are my renditions of the four new blocks, with the original block in the center:

Mystery Quilt, part two, with first block

Clockwise from upper left, they are Ruby Slipper, Trumpets of Spring, Dutch Touch (this one is foundation-pieced), and Log Cabin Star. Trumpets of Spring was hard – there are set-in seams and seams that have to turn corners in the piecing of this one, and they don’t really give you any guidance or tips on how to make the piecing work. Also, the directions for Ruby Slipper contain a typo; under “Assorted spring prints” where it says “(1 from each of 3 fabrics)” they really mean “(1 from each of 4 fabrics).”

Dale Sedalen Sweater

February 18th, 2007

As promised, more pictures and details on my Dale sweater. The pattern is Dale 3006 – Sedalen. It’s out of print, but I’ve seen it at various places online. I knit the sweater with the recommended Dale Heilo yarn – the yarn, pattern, and accessories all came from Bea Ellis Knitwear about a year ago. I started knitting in October 2006, took some time off for some Christmas knitting and finished on February 12, 2007.

I completely adore this sweater.

And now for some pictures! Please excuse my horrendous photography.

This modeled shot is a little better than the one posted earlier this week. Note the super-high-tech tripod, aka roll of paper towels. (and no, my fly is not open – it’s the angle and lighting)
Sedalen Modeled

Here’s a detail shot of the sweater body. The fact that the large colorwork pattern is nearly aligned between the body and sleeve is pure coincidence.
Sedalen Body Detail

Here’s the neckline. You can see the mitering of the braid:
Sedalen Neck Detail

Here’s the back of the sweater, where you can see that the design is centered:
Sedalen Back Detail

I thought Ann might be interested in looking inside, where you can see the sleeve facing which covers the stitches which were sewn and cut for the sleeve hole:
Inside the Sleeve

If you’re not so into knitting geekery, you can probably stop reading now, but I wanted to address a few topics which have come up in a couple listservs that I belong to.

These details are already recorded in the lovely blank book that I got from Cathy for Christmas…

Sizing: I knit the size 12 kids’ body and size 10 kids’ sleeves, with some added length in the solid-colored sections. When I re-did the sleeve tops, I stopped increasing at the point where there were as many stitches as on the size 8 kids’ sleeves, so I probably could’ve done the size 8 sleeves (again, with added length) for a more gentle increase slope (instead of the more dramatic increases and a longer straight portion at the upper arm which you see in the pictures).

The result of the mix-and-match sizing is a sweater which is far less oversized than the Dale patterns depict (for the record, I typically wear a womens’ medium in shirts). The sweater came out exactly the size I wanted it.

I also changed the colorwork a bit, by using parts of the smaller patterns from the adult-sized pattern (the large colorwork design is the same for both kids and adults).

Steeking: Instead of knitting back and forth starting with the front neck shaping, I did a front neck steek. By the time I got to the back neck shaping, all of the rows were one-color knitting, so I knit back and forth. I do have a couple previous posts about steeking.

Pattern Alignment: On the pattern leaflet, the colorwork is not symmetrical with respect to the cardigan opening for the adult sweaters shown (it is for the kids’ sweater). I did some calculation and found that if I started at the right front (after the center front steek) with the stitch marked on the pattern and knit all the way around the sweater, I would end up with the pattern centered at the back and symmetry in front. I didn’t have to stop and re-start the pattern at the side seams.

Sara’s Quilt

February 14th, 2007

Here are some photos of Sara’s Quilt in process. The next step it to put the border on. We can have the bubble border:
lower corner 2

Or the striped border:
upper corner

And here is a view of the entire quilt without the borders:
quilt for Sara

Nancy and I thought the bubble border looked best, but when you see everything together with the pink sashing, the bubble border makes a very soft, pink quilt. The stripe adds a little zip. It all depends on what look we want. So let me know what you think. That includes Crackpots who are only observers as well as the participants in this project.

Finished!

February 13th, 2007

Last night I finished sewing the clasps on my Dale of Norway sweater. I had intended to finish the sweater on Sunday, but that estimate failed to account for my excruciatingly slow hand-sewing when applying the braid.

I need to take better pictures, but I don’t think that’ll happen until the weekend (when I’m home during hours when there is decent natural light). So, to whet your appetite, here’s what it looks like:

SedalenFinished

Does it fit? Perfectly!

Sedalen Modeled

Details and better pictures will come in the not-too-distant future, but I’m thrilled enough with the sweater that I needed to post something now.

A Post About Comments

February 9th, 2007

Hi everyone! I’ve been woefully behind on commenting on other people’s posts, so I’ve just blown through and posted a bunch of comments. If the blog is set up correctly, you should get an email message for each one, so I’m sorry for spamming your inboxes.

Unfortunately, I have very little to post about – I’ve been stuck on a project for quite some time now, and it’s sitting on my sewing table silently mocking me: “You forgot the Golden Rule: Measure twice, cut once, and now you’re paying the price, mwah ha ha ha…”

I think I may stuff it back into the closet for a few more months and move on to something else.

Steeking Q & A

January 31st, 2007

Ann asked some questions about my sweater, and I figured I’d answer in a new post

I’m curious about whether you had any problems with your yarn getting sucked down into the bobbin area in your sewing machine as you stitched. The proprietor of our local yarn shop told me that that is her greatest worry about steeking – not the cutting, but the stitching – and we discussed the wisdom of basting some tracing paper to the back side of the sweater to prevent that problem. Or did you stitch with the wrong side of the sweater up?

I was nervous about problems when doing the sewing, but it went much more smoothly than I’d feared. The hardest part of the process was remembering to breathe while stitching the seams. I did the seaming with the right side of the sweater up and had no problems with yarn getting caught in the feed dogs or sucked down into the bobbin area. I used a stitch length of 2 (I’m not sure what the units of stitch length measurement are – millimeters, maybe?). The major change from my usual sewing was to use a different presser foot. According to my sewing machine manual, it is the Satin Stitch Foot. Most of the foot is clear plastic, and there is a handy arrow pointing toward where the needle is, so that helped immensely in “aiming” exactly where I wanted to sew into the needle. There’s probably some technique for taking good pictures of small, transparent plastic things, but I don’t know it, so here’s my best shot:

SteekingPresserFoot

I do admire your persistence in redoing your sleeves to get them to fit just right, but why did you cut off (aaaaaagh!!!) the top of the sleeve before redoing it rather than unravelling it?

I had a couple of reasons –
1. I put a bunch of effort into those sleeve tops, and I figured I could re-make the sleeve tops into hats or something else useful.
2. I’d already blocked the sleeves, so the unravelled yarn was really, really crinkly and would’ve require re-conditioning to be knittable. I had plenty of extra gray yarn, and bought more off-white yarn (which is a good thing, because I had to use some of the new skein to finish off the body knitting). This picture doesn’t fully convey the 3-dimensional crinkliness, but you can get an idea:

CrinklyYarn

To avoid disaster when cutting off the sleeves, I ran smooth cotton yarn through the row of stitches where I wanted to begin knitting again, then skipped three rows of knitting, and ran another length of yarn through an entire row. I cut through the middle of those three skipped rows, then was able to put the yarn-held row of stitches onto a circular needle, unravel the row above it, splice in the new yarn, adn begin knitting again. On my sleeve comparison, you can see the yellow “holding” yarn on the sleeve top.

And call me old fashioned, but I really don’t understand why anyone would choose to “cardiganize” a sweater. If you want a cardigan, why not just knit one?? I guess it’s just a Scandinavian thing.

The sweater pattern is for a cardigan – it’s just the Norwegian style to knit the sweater in a big tube with extra cutting stitches in the middle front, and then steek it.

And now, off to work on picking up stitches for the neckband!